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Match Tips..........
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Fishing the Slider
Andy Johnstone - Shimano Team Wales and Captain Fox Match RAF
I have fished the slider on and off since first fishing the method in Llangorse Lake in 1978 in my home country - Wales. A year later, I made good use of the slider in County Enniskillen in Ireland. On both occasions, I learned how to capitalise on the method with my “New Inn Nobbler” team mates. More recently, I have used the method occasionally in Holland, during my annual visit in April, but only when I can’t catch bream on the feeder, pole or waggler (up in the water). However, I wished I’d spent more time on the slider, when it became the method of choice for the 2006 European Championships in France.
I’ll explain some of the lessons and tips I learned from my Welsh team mates, Lee Edwards, Darren Frost and Ian Hughes, during a week’s practise for the European Championships. The method also dominated the 2007 World Championships in Hungary.
If you prefer float fishing over feeder fishing in deep water (over 14 foot) (or when fishing to FIPSed rules which rule out ledgering), it has to be the slider. The method is also favoured by some aficionados for fishing slightly shallower swims (say 10 foot) at distance.
The first tip which will make casting much easier (rather than rely on an overhead circular motion which requires the tackle to be released at just the right time to keep the tackle together and hit the baited area) is to use a semi-loaded slider float. There are several available but I stick to the models made by Drake. These loaded models ensure that the float dominates during the cast rather than the bulk shot. Doing this ensures that the float will drag the shot out, rather than the other way around (ie when casting, the force of the bulk shot often resulted in an unloaded float being left in mid-air while the line zoomed through it and tangles were often the result).
With a little practise, it's a simple method to use: as ever, success is more likely the result of feeding accurately and at the right times!
Loaded Sliders by Drake
I use a 14ft Normark Avenger rod and, for most work, 3lb maxima line is my choice. Another tip is to use a micro bead between the stop knots (use 2 to make sure they don't move - more later) and the eye of the float. By using a larger eye on the float and a micro bead, the line passes through the float much more easily and the bead stops against the stop knot.
Some anglers prefer to cast out set as deep as you possible can. They set it at around 8-9 foot from the hook by letting the float slide down the line and rest on a No4 shot whilst it's in the casting position. It is important to have a No4, instead of a larger shot, as a larger shot can lead to tangles. Also, don't use too small a shot as these will slip down the line. A No4 seems to grip the line perfectly. This is the stop-shot, it stops the float from sliding down the line. The only other shot on the line will be the bulk-shot and the telltale dropper shot. The bulk should never be or half-way mark - in this case, with the float set at 9 foot the 4ft 6in mark - because it will cause tangles. Usually, around 3 foot is right.
However, I prefer to let the loaded float sit on the bulk shot. The loaded float should be sufficiently loaded so that, in the water, it would stand up but with all the 9 inch antenna standing proud of the water. The antennae will probably take about 2 swan; its worth noting also that olivettes work very well as the bulk. Assuming, the above we need 2 swan (better to use 4 AAA or corresponding ollivette) as the bulk-shot which will be set 3 foot from the hook. The telltale shot(s) needs to be something that you can read on the float at a distance. Turning now to the droppers, use as few as you’re comfortable with but never more than 3 droppers. Droppers do not need to be small (generally, I use a couple of No 1 shot) as they are useful in showing lift bites (more later).
To test the full shotting of the float, we lock the float by positioning a No 8 shot above it and close to the No4 stop shot to lock it - this is just a temporary shot that will be removed once we have tested the float. After casting the float, you can either add or subtract shot to the bulk shot area to have the float sit perfectly. Any added bigger shot will be placed tight above the bulk shot and any added smaller shot will be placed tight below the bulk-shot.
Now to set the depth. Remove the No 8, cast in, the line will slide through the swivel/eye in the base of the float, and micro bead, until the stop knot reaches it. If the float settles to how you tested it when it was locked by the No 8 shot, it means the lower of the 2 telltale No 1 shot is suspended and not resting on the bottom. We are actually using the No 1 telltale shot as a plummet. Retrieve the tackle and slide the stop-knot 15 inches up the line (deeper) and re-cast. Repeat this until more float than should be is protruding, proving we have now put the telltale shot on the bottom.
We now need to shallow the tackle off by sliding the knot back down towards the float by seven and a half inches. Our ultimate aim is to get the No 1 telltale shot nearest the hook 2 to 3 inches off the bottom and with around 6 inches of line on the deck. If a fish picks the bait up and swims off with it, the float will go under. Alternatively, some fish often stand on their head to feed, they suck the bait in and than level off which lifts the last dropper and the float will rise out of the water.
5x World Champion - Alan Scothorn on the Slider
Tying the stop-knot is quite simple. I use 3lb Maxima mainline and, for the stop-knot, a 12 inch piece of the mainline (some people use a heavier line, say 4lb Maxima for the stop knots). Fold the short length of mainline and lay that in a loop on the main-line so that your left hand holds both the loop and the main-line. With your right hand, hold one of the two legs of the loop and go around the other leg and the main-line four times and then though the loop that you are holding in your left hand. Pull the two ends so that it just tightens it onto the line and slide it down until you have the right depth. When you have the right depth, then you can tighten the knot and cut the legs off to about 1 inch long. Then tie a second knot alongside it! We use a second knot to stop the first from slipping.
When fishing, you need to cast a little way past your baited area, place the rod-tip under the water, wind and sink the line. Maxima sinks well. Once the line has sunk, peel off some line and allow the line to run through the float. Get ready to strike - the float may slide under or pop up!
Match Tips
Hints & Tips from Match Anglers
Want to share your latest winning method; no? Well some tops anglers don't mind... find out who here.
Shimano Team Wales Matchmen Andy Johnstone gives an insight to fishing the Slider.
Shimano Team Wales Matchmen Andy Johnstone gives an insight to fishing the Flat Float.
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